Last Days in Lisboa (Lisbon)

After a wonderful evening with the whole family we prepared to start going on our separate journeys. Monica and I were enjoying a relaxing breakfast in the hotel garden when Sarah and Josh popped in to say hello. We were surprised (well perhaps not too surprised) to see them since it was almost 11am and they had declared intentions of an earlier start. They then went off by taxi to Belem for famous pastries and a start on joining the local monastery. They then explored the city, sampled local cherry brandy and had an early dinner. Poor Josh had to get up at 4am to travel home.

David and Anuzya surfaced by noon and together we explored the nearby museum - Museu National de Arte Antiga. Free admission was provided by our hotel. This museum has the largest collection of art in Portugal and seemed to go on forever. They also have a lovely garden restaurant where we sat and enjoyed a light lunch. Then Dave and Anuzya packed, grabbed a cab and flew home.

Monica and I went to Salgardiera for traditional Portuguese food. They didn't have our reservation, but found us a table. Great service, food and wine. Monica had salt cod and I had GOAT. The chef was especially gracious.

After dinner we went up to the hotel's rooftop library where we met two fellow travellers from Atlanta. We ended up talking with them until midnight. The husband was a mathematician and the wife a PhD historian. Too bad Josh wasn't awake to partake.

The next morning we rendez-voued with Sarah at breakfast and spent time chatting until she too had to catch her plane. Monica and I were now alone in Lisboa and a bit sad that all our family were gone.

But we quickly recovered and walked down to catch a local streetcar to Belem. Unfortunately when it arrived it was packed full of tourists and we couldn't board. So we grabbed a taxi which only cost one or two euros more and arrived at the Belem Monastery. The architecture and historical interpretations were fascinating. Afterward we headed for the famous Belem bakery where the delicious custard tarts were first made. We found a seat inside and where then joined by a german couple who asked to sit with us. The custards were very good, but not substantially better than similar ones we had elsewhere.

After coffee and custard we bought two tickets for the "Yellow Bus", a tour vehicle from which we hoped we could hop on and see parts of Lisboa. The tour was disappointing largely since our ticket wouldn't let us transfer to the more interesting downtown line. Lots of waiting around and then not allowed to Board. Not a good business model, nor customer friendly. We suggest avoiding the local tour bus companies here.

Abandoning the tour idea we went to the Barrio Alto Hotel with a rooftop patio. From here we had a great view of the city and found two business school buddies, one from Portugal and another from Japan communing with each other. They were fun to chat with.

For dinner we decided to try a small local community eatery. For the first time we had the option of chicken and took it. It was grilled to perfection and served with salad. Very low key and delicious. It was fun to watch local people enjoying themselves and be the only tourists in the place.

And so end Lisboa. The next morning our egg beater arrived, also known as a Fiat Punta and we headed north to Coimbra with several fun stops along the way.

Day 6 - Sintra Explored and Lisboa Attained

Today we explored the sights in Sintra. David and Anuzya had already toured the area so we left them back at the hotel pool while Sarah, Josh, Monica and Joe piled into the Van and drove to the hills, about 20 minutes away. Once we reached the town the streets became predictably narrow and windy. We luckily found a rare parking spot on the street, just large enough for the Van. Its too bad we didn't get a video of Joe's parallel parking magic. One try and we were perfectly parked. He was proud all day!

Just a few steps away we found the bus stop and grabbed the bus that took us up a steep, curvy road that led to several castles and palaces built in the late 1800's and one as early as 1498. When we disembarked at the top of the mountain we still had about a 500 metre hike straight up to the Pena Palace stairs. All of us, except Josh breathed a little heavy.

The Pena Palace was borderline Disney. It is a mixed match of different historical periods and styles, as it was built over a long period of time. It had amazing ceilings (see pictures below), tiles and interesting furnishings. It also had spectacular views from its top of the mountain perspective.

After the Pena Palace we rode the bus back down to the centre of Sintra to see the Palace Nationale. This 16th Century palace was more refined with interesting art and furnishings. Josh provided a running commentary on the historic relevance of all the objects.

We then hiked up a hill to find a garden restaurant and a quick lunch. We then navigated back to Casscia and picked up David, Anuzya and all our luggage. After only a few close calls at round abouts (who does have the right away?) we made it to the highway and soon after to Lisboa. Entering into the narrow streets with the Van Joe's nerves became frayed. Then we spotted our hotel, of course just after we passed it. One u-turn later we came to a shaky stop on a small side street and then inched our way down to the hotel's hidden garage door just before Joe collapsed in relief at finally parting with the Van.

The first few minutes of having to unload our own luggage and squeeze it into a small lift were stressful, but after we checked in we discovered that our new hotel was wonderfully hospitable with many tranquil public rooms (indoors and out), free Port in our rooms and honour bars in the library and garden. We felt a bit guilty watching two small women lugging our luggage up stairs to our respective rooms. And one of them decided that Monica and Joe needed a better room so she took it upon herself to move us. We were very grateful!

This first night we had already made reservations at the Cantinho do Avillez which shares a Chef with a related Michelin Star restaurant (Bel Canto). THis was a great choice and we certainly recommend it. The waiters and bartenders were knowledgeable, friendly and had good senses of humour. They made great Martinis and Old Fashioned and recommended wine that matched both the food and our tastes. Contrary to what one friend has been telling us we have discovered some very good local wines!

The food was "nouvelle Portuguese" and included appetizers of Partridge Pies; Tempura Green Beans; Bird Livers; and crab guacamole. Our entrees included scallops (ok, but not special); pork bruschetta ( moist and wonderful); cod; hamburger with foi gras and steak. Our wines, pictured below were complex and delighted our palates.

After dinner we walked along streets filled with people out for a Friday night and finally grabbed cabs back to our hotel where we spent a few hours chatting and sipping port and wine in the library. A nice way to end the day, especially since David and Anuzya were to fly away the next day.

Day 4 & 5 Sesimbra and Cascais

Day 4 and we are off to a relatively early start (11am). Had a short fright when the Van wouldn't start, but a skillful hotel staff showed me how to wiggle the steering wheel to get the engine roaring. I am a bit disappointed that my family hasn't bought me a Chauffeur's hat yet.

Monica and the GPS were skillful at guiding me out of Evora and the drive to Sesimbra was non-eventful. But when we arrived at this seaside town the navigation broke down as the roads became increasingly narrower. We circled several times looking for the address of a specific restaurant Monica had found in the guidebooks. Once we felt we were close we chose to grab one of the few parking spots large enough for our Van. Then we went in search of "Tony's Place". The "kids" were less interested in finding Tony's and they wandered off toward the beach; but Monica was determined to find it. As she headed off into the distance I glanced up and saw a dilapidated sign - "Tony's Place" - hanging above a boarded up window. I called to Monica to return and pointed at the sign. She was suitably amused.

Luckily there were many choices for dining and we chose a restaurant that displayed its catch for all to see. We had pretty good seafood, nice wine and friendly service. Then a walk on the very crowded beach and a return to the Van.

Our next journey was about 50 minutes to Cascais, a pretty upscale fishing/tourist village. The GPS took us to the street of our hotel, but could not provide any guidance on the hotel's actual location. By chance I spotted the Pousada Cascais sign just as we passed it. A short turn around a round about and we headed in through a round narrow archway.

This Pousada is very modern inside, but outside it has preserved the look of an old citadel. There is no parking on site and no valet service. So after the attentive staff unloaded our Van we had to drive up the street to park in a public lot.

Our rooms are modern and very comfortable. The public areas face the ocean and the pool is warm and fun. The restaurant hasn't figured out cocktails yet, but had good wine and reasonable food.

Tonight we all went our separate ways for dinner, but Monica and I ran into Sarah and Josh along the sea. Monica and I found a small restaurant with modern Portuguese food (Paradigma) and the bartender made a great "Old Fashioned" with Blanton's bourbon. I was happy. Our table was on a 2-person balcony and we had a view of the sea and the light show. As we neared the end of our dinner (Monica had grilled sea bream and I had pasta - she always makes better choices) we spotted David and Anuzya walking down the street, heading to the restaurant we had reserved for tomorrow night! We chatted and arranged for them to take over our perch, in what was now a completely booked restaurant. All were happy.

The day and night were complete.

Day 5 - We all did our own adventures. Sarah and Josh toured the town and found a beach. The water was cold but they braved the temperatures for a swim. David and Anuzya woke up late and then toured various art galleries. Joe and Monica toured the large park and gardens and then walked along the ocean, explored the town and then rested before seeing some galleries. The Paula Rego gallery was Monica's favourite.

In the late afternoon the whole family gathered poolside and then went off for dinner. Unfortunately the Baia do Peixe was a disaster. The service was absolutely non-existant, the food showed no evidence of anyone's interest. Several items ordered did not appear and trying to get a second bottle of wine was a challenge. Thankfully we could retreat for dessert and after dinner refreshments back at the Paradigma where we were treated warmly.

Tomorrow - Sintra!

Day 3 - Evora

Seems not everyone is quite over jet lag. It was a slow start, but after a late breakfast we headed out on foot for our tour of Evora. Monica was in the lead and her good scouts were close behind. We started with the "Tower" and Church near our hotel then stopped for lunch at an Italian restaurant with unremarkable food and just one very busy waiter.

We then headed to the Church of bones which had internal walls lined with skulls. Very creepy and interesting. Then wandered through a local market and then back to the pool for some relaxation and Yoga led by Anuzya.

Dinner tonight was at Fahlaro, a local restaurant specializing in local fare. FOD and service were both good. Wine was fantastic.

Nice walk home along cobblestone streets and then well deserved sleep.

Day 2 - A VAN Adventure for the Clan

Family was slow to rise this morning, but eventually everyone found there way to breakfast. Monica had briefed everyone the night before about possible activities and we quickly agreed to head off to the Espora Winery for lunch and a tour. Getting out of town in our nine passenger van was a bit challenging, but we succeeded with no adverse events and only a few bruised feelings :)

The 50 minute drive seemed like a mix of the Okanagan Valley, France and parts of Ontario. We drove the wine route and saw lots of vineyards as well as farmland and cork trees. The winery is huge,with hundreds of hectares of grapes, as far as the eye can see. We arrived around 1pm and had a wonderful lunch accompanied by non-existent service. Treats included various cod dishes; octopus, wonderful wines and a cottage cheese based custard that Sarah swooned over. Unfortunately the glacial service meant we didn't finish lunch until 4pm, thus missing the 3pm tour.

We all retreated to the pool at our hotel and relaxed for a while and then went our separate ways for dinner. The front desk recommended a delightful little restaurant called "a quarter to nine", located at the junction of 2 alleys. We sat outside and our waiter was friendly, efficient and a provided us good advice on food and wine.

We shared a small tomato salad followed by monkfish, shrimp in a stew like sauce and accompanied by fresh potato chips. We struck up a conversation with the couple next to us when we offered to let them try our wine before they ordered their own bottle. Soon after I looked down the alley and saw David and Anuzya wondering up. They had received the same recommendation from the front desk. They sat near us and when they were debating what wine to choose the couple next to us returned our favour and let them have a sip of theirs. We ended up having great conversations and also great Port!

Sarah and Josh found their own romantic spot for the evening.

Day 1 - Completion

Day one had a blend of good and just ok food. Monica, Sarah, Josh and I found a small courtyard with Tapas menu. We all enjoyed our choices which included cod fritters, shrimp salad, grilled pork, assorted cheeses and a wonderful local white wine. We must visit there again to try some of the Martin Miller Gin. It's Monica's favourite, first discovered in UK and never found again until that lunch. Too bad we didn't see it until we were leaving.

Dinner at our hotel was a good family event with terrific local wine. Service was warm and fun, but alas the food was unremarkable.

Day 1 - Evora

All of Monica's planning has paid off. Monica, Sarah, Josh and I all convened at the airport 3 hours before our flight. Lots of time to eat, chat and talk about our upcoming family adventure. THe Air Transit flight was full. Thank goodness Monica booked us all emergency aisle seats. Lots of leg room, even though the seats were the smallest I have ever experienced. Service was friendly, food was not so great. Luckily for all of us I was able to squeeze out a few hours of sleep - since I am to be the designated driver for our trip.

We arrived on time in Lisbon, retrieved our luggage, bought a SIM card (we are connected!) and found the agent who provided our vehicle. What a monster of a van - a nine seater! I was truly proud that I managed to navigate this large standard transmission tank out of the airport and along the road to Evora. The trip took about an hour and 45 minutes. The countryside was a mixture of parched grazing land and orchards of cork trees. An easy drive until we hit the town.

Navigating the narrow streets of this ancient town was challenging with our tank. After a few false attempts we found our hotel and successfully parked. The staff at the Pousada Dos Loios were friendly and efficient. We have all of the hotel's 3 suites booked. Nice rooms, not large, but adequate with an old world, slightly worn charm.

After a bit of freshening up we explored the town, had much needed coffee and found a lovely courtyard for lunch. Tapas, good local white and red wine and then back to the hotel where we were excited to meet David and Anuzya who had just arrived from Lisbon. Lots of hugging and chatter. This was the first time we all got to meet DAvid's lovely companion.

I then guided David and Anuzya to the same courtyard and sat getting to know her as they ordered and enjoyed some local food. Then back to the pool for relaxation.

More on the food and wine later. Its great to have are whole nuclear family together!